The tiny, fluttery hummingbird is the national bird of Jamaica (where it’s called the Doctor Bird), which is where this cake originated. And so I went all in and made a three-layer celebration cake and flung slices off with friends and neighbors and have absolutely no regrets, except for the fact that it’s gone now. It is deliciously warm and happy, almost defiant, planning for a brighter year ahead, no matter what the one before it looked like. It feels forward-looking and spring-celebrational. But it had been so long since I’d made a towering and abundantly festive layer cake and ever since spotting this hummingbird cake in Zoë François’s fantastic - like, just go buy it right now, you are in for a treat - new cookbook, Zoë Bakes Cakes, I couldn’t think about anything else. Passover is in three days and those who celebrate it don’t want to be tempted by forbidden baked goods. I know, I know: We’re still in a global pandemic.
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